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H I S T O R Y
O F H E R E
P a r t 186
By:
James F "Jim" Barrett
Lookin' at a
Valuable Neighbor - Continues - Part III
Well,
well, dear reader friends, have you been enjoying
our helping you with insight regarding the early
and formative "happenings" that brought the Ross
family, Inspiration Point and Harold Bell Wright
together back at the turn of the 20th Century
(1899-1903)? There are so many facets to the story
it's hard to tell the whole tale without having to
go back and pick up loose bits and pieces and show
how they weave into the picture. I'd love to tell
you more about the Lynchs and Marble (Marvel) Cave,
but I did all that in a six part series here in the
old Gazette many months ago. I'd love to tell you a
bunch more stories about the Bald Knobbers, Nat
Kinney, Wash Gibbs and all the others of that well
meaning group of "Law and Order League" folk, which
deteriorated under Kinney's iron hard guidance into
the band of vigilantes that became the most
infamous, dangerous and bloody such group in the
world. But the Bald Knobbers are only one of the
many important parts of the tale involved in the
Shepherd of the Hills Farm and Theater.
As
we've told you, the railroad came to the Ozarks in
1903. That's a very short and bland statement that
only captions a long and amazing tale of intrigue,
bravery, business acumen, unbelievably hard work,
dedication, massive investments of cash and the
building of one of the most difficult and valuable
branch railroad lines in history. The White River
Line, constructed by the Missouri Pacific, departed
from the main line in eastern Arkansas and drove
north, generally following the White River Valley
and other, tributary, creeks and rivers. It passed
near the small and struggling fishing town of
Branson, and then headed up Roark Creek Valley,
eventually going through the new long and expensive
tunnel at Reeds Spring, working slowly west into
the plains.
Harold
Bell Wright, while living in his temporary cabin up
on Inspiration Point was said to have heard the
explosions down in the Roark. When he asked if they
were the repercussions from Civil War cannon, the
Rosses laughed and told him about the new railroad
being blasted through the hills and valleys of the
Ozarks, heading for the lead mines of Joplin and
Carthage. It is said that Wright shook his head and
remarked sadly that the railroad, when it was
opened, would change the Ozarks forever. Little did
he realize that his words were not only prophetic
and absolutely correct, but that the book he was
then writing, The Shepherd of the Hills, would join
with the new railroad to see that his words came
true - in spades!
The
Shepherd of the Hills book became the fourth most
widely published and read novel in the entire
world. It struck a major chord with people
everywhere. For the world was undergoing a unique
revolution. A huge health and back-to-nature fad
was sweeping America and spreading to the world at
large. People were fascinated with the idea that
"natural" things were right, that living in God's
great out of doors was healthy and proper, and that
one should look for opportunities to embrace all
such things and people. The characters and the
setting in Wright's book were exactly suited to the
new fad. Suddenly, people everywhere wanted to come
to the Ozarks, commune with nature, meet these
wonderful rustic people and - somehow - absorb and
revel in new healthiness from the experience and
the obvious freshness of the Ozark's mountains and
simple folk.
In
1907, when the railroad was four years old and
firmly established, Wright's book hit the
bookseller's shelves. Soon the railroad was
inundated with people wearing brand new hiking and
exploring garb, looking eagerly out the passenger
car windows and chattering about the wonderfully
rustic natives they would meet and the simple and
healthful ways they were going to sample in
Wright's version of the Ozark's backwoods. The
Missouri Pacific quickly picked up the cue and
began ardently promoting tourism to Branson,
Hollister and the deep woods of the Ozarks. They
even joined in the financing and building of a new,
tourist oriented little town along their tracks in
Hollister, Olde English Village, which is still
pretty much there today.
At
this point no one had given much thought to how
folks were going to get from the railroad depots in
Branson and Hollister to the remote and trackless
site of the Ross farm and Inspiration Point, as
well as all the other points of interest and
excitement told of in Wright's amazingly popular
book. There were no roads, paved or otherwise in
this portion of the Ozarks. There were rough wagon
routes, horse and walking trails - and that was
about it. But that didn't stop the wave of eager,
enthusiastic and dedicated tourists. They hired all
the wagons and guides they could find, bought
backpacks and hiked - or rented mules and horses to
ride. One way or another they all struck out into
the woods, determined to see the people and places
Wright had told them of.
One
of the people who took advantage of this situation
was a lady named Pearl Spurlock. Late of
Springfield, she and her husband had come to
Branson to cash in on the new excitement brought on
by the railroad and the massive tourism. However,
their business wasn't doing all that well and Mr.
Spurlock became quite ill. Pearl, a diminutive,
chubby little lady, known to about everyone as
"Sparky," took on a giant, wooden-spoke wheeled
Buick and formed her own taxi service. She bravely
set out to discover and to pioneer a drivable route
to Inspiration Point - and succeeded. Over the
following years she made more than a hundred trips
each year, taking tourists to see the places Wright
had written of.
At
last the Ross family, whom everyone believed were
really Old Matt, Young Matt and Aunt Molly, grew
weary of the flood of probing, gawking,
handshaking, question-asking tourists. They packed
up and moved away, down into the Roark Valley,
helping to form the new little community of Garber,
on the St. Louis and Iron Mountain RR line there -
the White River Line division of the Missouri
Pacific Railroad. And there the elder Rosses stayed
for the rest of their lives. Their son moved to
California where he eventually died in a motor
accident. The few remains of the Ross cabin may
still be seen in the woods that have taken over the
site of the now abandoned Garber.
The
Ross's old cabin, their farm and Inspiration Point
in general languished for nearly twenty years after
the Ross's departure. Of course, tourists and
gawkers still came to the site after they left.
They ripped up, tore down and carried off anything
and everything that they could lay hands on - as
souvenirs. Even the boiler and steam engine that
drove the sawmill was left only as a rusting and
dismantled iron hulk. All the gauges, wheels and
paraphernalia had been unscrewed and carried
away.
Then
came Elizabeth P. McDaniel. Born to wealthy banker
parents in Springfield in 1871, Elizabeth was
always a vivacious and busy lady. She became
increasingly involved in social and civic
activities as she grew up. Her parents even
constructed an outdoor theater in a natural setting
at Cove Hollow, where their estate lay. Here
Elizabeth sponsored plays and operettas, as well as
numerous church services. She was always at the
center of all of the glittering and exciting social
and party life in Springfield at the end of the
1800's and the early part of the 1900's.
This
5'5", 86 lb. lady was a whirlwind of activity,
always. She had, of course, read the famous book,
The Shepherd of the Hills, when it came out in
1907. Somehow, nearly twenty years later, she found
out the abandoned circumstances of the Ross
homestead and farm. In 1926 she began selling her
banking and flourmill holdings. People shook their
heads in Springfield, for they knew she was
determined to restore the old homes and landmarks
of Wright's book before time, tourists and nature
could reclaim them and ravish them entirely to dust
and debris. She raised a rather considerable amount
of cash and acquired the Ross properties. To her
social circle's amazement Elizabeth left her lovely
home in Springfield and moved into the ramshackle
old Ross cabin, high atop Inspiration Point above
the Roark Valley.
Well,
durn! We've run out of space once again, dear
reader friends. But there's much more fun, intrigue
and action ahead in the story of The Shepherd of
the Hills, The Farm and The Theater. We'll follow
Miss Lizzie as she brings back the Ross cabin,
restores the furnishings and causes the Ozarks to
rediscover the fun and values of its heritage. This
little dynamo became the cause and center of the
second wave of tourism to hit the Ozarks. Then
we'll meet the Bruce and Mary Trimble family and
discover how these Ozark pioneers pulled everything
together to create what we see today. By the way -
if you haven't been attending our historic shows at
the Wilderness Road Dinner Theater in my son's
grand old restaurant - well, you've missed a lot of
good stories and a ton of jolly fun. We're there
every Thursday night, come join us and we'll tell
you a story or two - and you can join us in a
sing-along.
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