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The Glade Top Trail Of
The Mark Twain

The Message Tree Staff

      Across southern Missouri lie thousands of square miles of land maintained by the Forest Service and simply known to many Ozarkers as "The Mark Twain." Presidential Proclamation established this national treasure on September 11, 1939. The 1.5 million acres of land features various examples of vegetation, geological features, water resources, wildlife, seven federally designated wildernesses and numerous historical and archaeological sites. Many of the rural roads that cling precariously to the winding ridge tops, provide excellent views of the surrounding countryside, but one of the most scenic is the Glade Top Trail near Ava.

 

     In the thirties, the men of the Civilian Conservation Corps, built the gravel, two lane trail, providing access to the interior of this particular part of the Mark Twain and now, from the several vantage points along the route, some of the most breathtaking views of the national forest can be found. In the spring, redbud and Dogwood trees provide color but during autumn, the "flaming fall revue" draws visitors from all across the Midwest just to see the spectacular views that reach to the distant horizon.

 

     The forests that seem to go on forever, are not the only wondrous sights found along the Glade Top, numerous species of wildflowers can be found in the glades that are found on the bald knobs and ridges in the preserve. Slowly disappearing throughout the Ozarks, glade ecosystems, fragile and beautiful rocky outcrops lined with wildflowers, are one of nature's best handiworks, something everyone should take to enjoy.

      From Ava, follow Highway 5 south for about 5 miles to County Route A and watch for the signs that direct the traveler to the start of the trail. Not far from the sign that denotes the beginning of the Glade Top is the first of several points of interest. A state natural area containing forty acres of glades, Haden Bald is typical of those mountains of the Ozarks that appear to be "bald" on top due to the limestone glades and lack of trees on the rocky outcroppings. Directly across the trail from Haden is Smoke Tree overlook where the trees known locally as yellowwood line the valley and each fall turn deep shades of red and orange.

      A mile and a half past Smoke Tree, is Arkansas View, where on a clear Ozarks day you can see the neighboring state some forty miles in the distance. Further along you will see Watershed Divide, a ridge that separates the valleys of Beaver Creek and the Little North Fork of the White River watershed. This ridge that geologically creates a divide between the two watersheds, is typical of many ridges throughout the Ozarks that our ancestors have constructed roads along as we have detailed in past issues of The Message Tree.

      To the south, you can see Caney lookout tower, a structure built by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) in the thirties. The trail will take you around the knob that the tower stands on, and down a hill to the Caney picnic area. This spot is perfect for a family outing, featuring a covered pavilion, an amphitheater with open-air stage, spectacular views, and a trail from the parking area that leads to a small cave. Just to the south is Pinnacle Mountain which is home to a legend that tells of a lady from Kansas city that had a dream telling her to dig for gold on top of the knob. Apparently she never did find any precious metals, but the beauty of the area certainly is worth a fortune in gold.

      About twenty-three miles from start to finish, the Glade Top Trail is well worth taking the time to enjoy, especially if you are a fan of the flora and fauna of the Ozark Mountains. During the third weekend of October, Ava sponsors a Glade Top celebration in the city park with barbecue and entertainment; see the Ava Chamber of Commerce web site for the 2004 event. But why not take the time to prepare a picnic lunch, or stop off at one of the areas fine restaurants and pick an order to go and spend some time enjoying one of the finest areas in Missouri's Mark Twain National Forest.

 

all photos by the Message Tree Staff

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